Friday, September 26, 2008

The Beauty of Sensoji Temple







Sometimes it can be forgotten just how important the temples and shrines are to the landscape of Tokyo. In the mix of old and new which has always been apart of the makeup of the city; the temples and shrines can be overshadowed in post-modern Tokyo. For a while I lost all interest in seeing the temples and shrines in Tokyo. Sadly, like many, I developed a `been there done that` attitude` towards checking out the temples. Those days are gone as I have renewed my interest in all the wonderful temples Tokyo has to offer.

I am now of the opinion that it is important to go to these places from time to time as a reminder that the city I call home is really a unique place to live. There are so many things here which would jaw drop many of the people from my old home in West Virginia. To become jaded in Tokyo is to deny some self of so much wonder and beauty. I almost became jaded but I stopped myself before I reached the point of no return.



Sensoji temple is a great place to cure the jaded Tokyo blues. If this place does not inspired some wonder in your heart then you really are in trouble. Located in Asakusa Sensoji is popular among tourist and Japanese alike. It is an ancient Buddhist temple and Tokyo`s oldest. After WWII the temple has become a symbol of rebirth and peace for the people of Japan. It is dedicated to the bodhisattva Kannon or Guan Yin or the Goddess of Mercy. There are many shops to visit along the entrance to the temple. Also, there are many drinking bars which offer seating along the street. The drinking bars are very popular during the evening hours as they usually full up quickly.

Sensoji temple is one of the most beautiful temples in Tokyo. I could not help but be taken aback by its beauty. It has the traditional Japanese look and feel that serves as inspiration and renewal that many Gaijin living in Tokyo need from time to time. Sensoji can remind you of what a great and unique city we call home. Take the time to check this temple out. You will not be disappointed.













Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Duality of Tokyo

It comes as no surprise that Tokyo is a city of extremes. Being one of the largest cities on the world, Tokyo can be gentle as a babies behind or as a wild as a bobcat. If Tokyo was a women I would have to spend years putting much effort into understanding her odd nature. This city has the unique ability to change its overall vibe like day and night; literary!

During the day time Tokyo is one of the mellowest places in the world; as far as international jewel cities are concerned. While the city basically stays in a constant state of semi-chaos there is a calmness which befalls it providing an unspoken and strictly followed social order. As I am not born of Japanese blood it is hard for me to understand how a tightly ordered social structure has developed though the many years of Tokyo`s history. Yet, the Japanese have a nature sense of order which is not found in America.

The morning rush in Tokyo is a thing of legend and a perfect example of `order out of chaos` which is the hallmark of day times hours. Between the hours of 5:30 and 9:00 am on a weekday do not travel on the trains in Tokyo unless you have a good reason. It is during this time in which a mass of people make their way to work. A sea of humanity pack the trains to way over capacity. You would be hard pressed to find another city in the world in which the trains conductors push and shove people into the trains just to be able to close the doors. The people are sandwiched into the trains like a can of sardines. In a lot of places in the world this kind of transportation situation would be grounds for a mad rush in the morning requiring a heavy police presence just to maintain the peace. In Tokyo the morning rush is an ordered and clam experience despite the overwhelming amount of people using the train system.

All rules, both legal and social, are followed to a point during the day time. It is very rare to see someone get so-called out of line with the norm. The city operates like a well oil machine. A beast of a machine cranking out human production rolls down the highway of progress seemingly without a hitch. Almost everyone stops and waits for the cross walk stop light; no matter how narrow the street. Excuse me, thank you, and bowing is done all day long in what appears to be the most polite society in the world.

Although, when the five o`clock bell sounds in most parts of the city an alter ego surfaces to reveal a 180 degree shift in flow and attitude.

When most people start to get off work Tokyo changes. The bastard child of a high pressure and ordered society comes out to play. You can almost feel this change in the air. The city speaks to its residents tempting all with her pleasures and hidden delights. If you listen closely there is soft voice in the air saying, `You have worked hard enough my children. Come and enjoy the fruits of your labor.` There is a break down of social order in a way. Many things which would be considered rude during the day become totality acceptable during the night hours. You can be just about as loud and drunk as you choose as long as you do not get violent or make too much trouble. Many of the excuse me and thank you policies are thrown out the window in favor of wild times and drunken excess.

Yes, Tokyo is a city with a split personality. It can be a huge shock for some people making their first trip to the land of the raising sun. The best advice to handle the duality of Tokyo is to simply go with the flow at times. Try to keep your head straight and remember do not let these two very different personalities take you under.

Monday, September 22, 2008

The Green Fairy in Tokyo

Of all the drinks that are available to me in Tokyo the one I never thought about was Absinthe. The odd green drink of legend never crossed my mind in the land of the raising sun. I did not give much thought to the idea that the Japanese had developed a taste for the green fairy. Considering the rep that Absinthe has, and the Japanese government`s view of anything that provides a little extra groove, I assumed that the chances of trying the stuff out in Tokyo was next to nothing. Yet again, Tokyo has surprised and amazed me.
I was throwing back a few at the Hub in Kita-Senju on Sunday after work. You know, just the usual drinking binge nothing special. I wanted to try something new and realized that I had never really dug deep into the Hub`s offerings. I usually just stick to a tower beer or a Cuba Libra and all the good with the world. Well, after downing a tower beer(one liter of beer) I desired a change of pace. Towards the back of the drink menu there is was; Absinthe Classic. I could not believe my eyes. A drink that I had heard so much about yet was never allowed to have due to some fucked up US law(which was recently lifted at the end of 2007). I had to have one; or two.



I want up to the counter and order one. The gal gave me some messed up attitude but served me one glass of the strange green drink of lore. By the way, why do so many gals who work at all the Hubs around Tokyo have a messed up attitude? I guess the world may never know. Anyway, I got this thing back to my table and just kind of stared at it for a bit. I really did know what I had in front of me. Over the years I had heard so much stuff about Absinthe that I was almost a little afraid to try it. I have heard tales of actually seeing a sexy green fairy to being able to gain the power of witchcraft. I only half believed most of the stuff I had heard. After all it is just a really power drink that gives you a slightly different effect from normal alcohol; plus it is green!

Well, after taking my first taste I was hooked. It taste really good! This is due to the manner in which Absinthe is served. It is a really power drink so sugar is dissolved into it using a special spoon and really expensive mineral water. This gives it a nice sweet taste. Although, there is no getting around flower taste which comes cutting right though the sugar.

The thing which has given Absinthe such a lore is the fact that it contains a chemical called thujone. Thujone is a psychedelic chemical found in Absinthe which acts on the GABA receptors in the brain. It is believed to induce a slight psychedelic experience to the person who drinks Absinthe. Although, this fact has never been proven. Well, after drinking two traditional Absinthe drinks and one hard cocktail(without bring watered down). I have to admit that I did not feel drunk but not sober either. It felt like some strange mix of a alcohol and weed. I felt as if spiders were gently crawling on my skin. You know, kind of like a whole body tingle. I do not know if Thujone was causing that or if my body reacts different to strong alcohol due to my experiences with moonshine. Either way Absinthe is a great drink and I suggest it to anyone. So, the next time you are at the Hub order you a few rounds of Absinthe and see how it effects you.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Does Tokyo Drink Too Much?


A big issue that is rarely addressed in Tokyo, as well as all of Japan, is looking at how much we drink. Anyone who spends any amount of time in Tokyo will notice that there are a hell of a lot of bars here. You can get a drink at any time day or night in Tokyo. It is very easy to have a stiff shot of Jack at four in the morning; I know because I have done this. It would seem that getting drunk is a way of life in Tokyo.

There are very few social rules concerning drinking in Tokyo. I have heard and personally had enough experiences with drinking in Tokyo to get a very clear picture of the attitude towards staggering drunks. The Japanese tend to be friendly and helpful to slobbering drunks most of the time. Now, there are times when some people go way over the line to the point in which not even the Japanese can forgive; but you have to get pretty drunk to reach that point. For the most part being drunk off your ass is viewed as funny rather than disrespectful. Most people in Tokyo have been one of the `last train` people who are only one more drink away from being unable to stagger onto the train. The train workers, in most cases, will help you out if you cannot handle the task of getting into the train on your own power. Even the police take a light heartened attitude towards those of us who have had one too many. Why does a culture, which at times is as straight laced at they come, have a deep acceptance of drunken hijinks?

The answer to this question could be found in the fact that the culture is so straight laced and thick upper lipped. Drinking is one of the very few accepted ways of letting off steam in Japan. Many people in Tokyo work their balls off sometimes to the point of near insanity. With a very hectic lifestyle, a high pressure social order, and sometimes very long work hours it is no wonder that Tokyo people are some of the biggest drunks in the world. I, like many people in the land of the raising sun, have a love of a good drink. I can also admit that I have been a little too drunk a few times. Although, I have never gotten to the point of loosing total control of myself. This cannot be said of everyone. Most people have got the one story of witnessing someone who got totally out of hand and did something that will go down in Tokyo drinking legend.

Work hard and drink seems to be the battle call of Tokyo city. During the day it is a mostly well ordered and square place as you could find in the world. Most people are all dressed up in business wear and serious as a hand grenades.The great exodus of people marching to work from six to nine a.m. is like an army of working class drones right out of 1984. No one showing any hint of drunken madness, just a sea of ties and blank faces. One would think that such a hoard of uptight working people would never resort to daily mass drinking and merry making. This show of order and conservative behavior is just a front induced by a culture which demands focus and conformity in ones daily life. The social and cultural pressures placed on people on a daily basis can be overwhelming at times.

Once five o`clock rolls around and the sun starts to set a very different atmosphere takes hold of the city. When the sun sets Tokyo becomes a play ground of sorts for both young and old alike. It is time to get drunk, laid, and cut business deals in a nightlife with a very different set of rules apart from the day time hours. What is forbidden behavior during the day can at times become all well and fine during the night. I have said many times that in the Tokyo nightlife if you turn over enough rocks you will find exactly what you want.

So, does Tokyo drink too much? Well when compared to some cities in the world yes. Although, within the aspects of Japan the level of drinking in Tokyo is only a reflection of the alter ego of a tightly ordered social structure.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

A visit to Meiji Jingu Shrine

I must admit that I have not really be to any temples in Japan for several years. I first visited Tokyo over four years ago. Back then, I was crazy about seeing all the old temples, shrines and other such sightseeing stuff. Now that I live in Tokyo it is rare for me to visit a temple. I have developed a `been there done that` attitude towards the temples and such in Tokyo. This is a real shame because there are some amazing things to see in Tokyo. With an extreme want to break my some what jaded attitude towards temples in Tokyo I recently made a visit to the Meiji Jingu Shrine in Harajuku.

I often hang out in Harajuku but do not give a second thought to the huge shrine in the area. Something so large and breathtaking is worth taking a gander at from time to time. I do find it very odd that a street fashion and youth punk hang out area has evolved around a shrine so large and beautiful. It is just more evidence of the mix of old and new that is the hallmark of modern Tokyo.

The Meiji Jingu shrine is starting to show its years. The shrine is really looking a little run down. The roofs are starting to sag and mold is taking hold on many of the buildings. Lucky for the temple that it is finally getting a much needed face lift. It is about time I say. If there is one shrine in Tokyo that deserves to be preserved it is Meiji Jingu. It is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his consort, Empress Shoken. Meiji himself is one of the most important leaders in Japanese history as it was he who brought Japan into the modern world.


The process of giving the old girl a face lift in under way





In some ways it makes perfect sense that a raging youth underground cultural has developed around the Meiji Jingu shrine. The Meiji period was all about change and taking Japan in a new direction. Meiji changed many things about Japan and redirected the course of the nation forever. Constant change is a big part of Harajuku. Fashion trends come and go with the wind and there is always something new to see and experience in Harajuku.

It was well worth the effort to visit Meiji Jingu. I felt very relaxed there. It was so peaceful and inspiring. The surrounding forest reminded me of my mountain home in West Virginia. It looks just like the gentle lower areas of the West Virginia mountains. I left the shrine feeling refreshed and balanced. I took many photos to share with everyone. I hope you enjoy!



















Friday, September 5, 2008

Wondering in Harajuku and Aoi

My adventures in Tokyo have their moments. When I have off time from work I must do something. I feel like my off days are wasted if I do not get into something. Although, there are times when I just want to relax and take it easy, those times are rare. Yesterday, I ventured out to Harajuku to hang with Tommy and my other art friends from Vietnam.

Now, there are not the type of guys that you call up and plan to meet some place. They are more free flowing kind of people. You just have to know where I hang out and go there to meet them. Usually, they can be found at the bridge in front of the temple in Harajuku. As usual they were there selling paintings and hanging out. They are always happy to see me. They consider me to be not a normal western person; which is the main reason they have taken such a fondness to me. Tommy does the majority of the talking as he is the leader of their little gang. They are really laid back at all times. As soon as Tommy spotted me he gave me a hug and suggested that we buy from beers from the convenience store. I agreed of course and soon we had beers for the four of us. There are few things better than sitting on the streets drinking beer and hanging out. Tommy smoked some spice with me and we talked about random things of life and the universe.

Thin(Vietnam name) paining live on the streets of Harajuku


After some time I wanted to wonder around a bit. Tommy was all for it and off we went into the depths of Harajuku. The whole area carries with it a more relax feel then say Shibuya. People who hang out in Harajuku often are different from most people in the city. In Harajuku they can be accepted and do pretty much do what ever they please. The alternative lifestyle of Harajuku is what attracts me to the area. No worries in Harajuku!

Tommy and I ended up stopping at a cool art gallery. If you have not seen this place it is well worth checking out. If go all the way the end of main street and cross the highway there are lots of little sides streets. Wonder around for a bit and you will find this little gem in Harajuku. Remember a city hunt always has it rewards. Anyway, we hung out for a while and drank a beer. As luck would have it Tommy started talking to a fellow Giajin named Eric from Cali. He was very friendly and quick to make friends. We talked about Tokyo for a while before making our way back to the front of the temple. Eric parted ways and we are making plans to hang again soon. This is proof that Gaijin in Tokyo actually do talk to each other. The situation just has to be right.

Drinking with Tommy at the art gallery



My wife meet me in Harajuku to hang out with me. M.K. states that she is hungry as hell so Tommy suggest a good curry shop in Harajuku. We say goodbye to Tommy`s gang and make our way to a great little curry shop. I am very keen on curry. I love the stuff! This place has some damn fine curry. Even M.K. loved it; although I think it was because she was just very hungry and anything would taste good. Curry must have a proper balance of spice and hotness; and of course the nam must be up to snuff. They really hit all points. The nam was great! I has a type of nam that I have never tired before. It came in mid size slices filled with meat and onions. M.K. played it safe and want for the normal over sized nam. We both had chicken curry and lamb curry. I will have to go to this place again.

Hungry, Hungry M.K. loving her nam and curry


After curry came a little shopping for me. M.K. loves to shop with me for some reason. While this is usually a female habit I have somehow picked up the love of shopping. Maybe, I have spent too much time with M.K. and she has implanted this love of shopping into my head. Either way it is fun to shop around and find cool stuff to wear. We went to the WeGo. It is a cool place that opened in Harajuku eariler this summer. It is mostly a vintage shop with very good prices. I picked a great pair of jackboots and a attractive looking pair of jeans; attractive because they are tight punk style jeans except no holes. A fashion show was in order when we got back to the house.

The Che hat is just for effect. I am not turning red! LOL


Before we went back to Aoi we stopped for a cup of coffee at a nice little coffee shop in Harajuku. It was a good place but they served my coffee in a strange coffee bowl. I guess it is one of those things that can be spoken of as `only in Tokyo.`



Drinking it was very awkward



Well, after a fine day just hanging out it was time to bed down for the night; at least for M.K. My off days are currently Thursday and Friday`s so while M.K. had to sleep I did not. I put her to bed and surf the net for a while until I got board. I decided to wonder around Aoi for the rest of the night. I ended up walking around drinking and taking a few photos. Here is the result:
















Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Antonio Inoki SakabaBar and Grill

Recently, I was invited by the staff at my job to go out for a little drinking. They have been working hard recently and wanted to get a little drunk and blow off some steam. Well, it is always nice to get out with co-workers with so I agreed. They decided to meet up in Ikebukuro after everyone was finished; they usually finish after me due to their heavy work load. My fellow teacher Hamed was also attending so I looked forward to the outing. I have recently only started exploring Ikebukuro so this was a good chance to discover a new place. They took me to something I never expected to see in Tokyo; a pro-wrestling bar and grill!

I always thought that for the most part Japanese to do take to pro-wrestling well. I know that they have pro-wrestling but I assumed it was only a passing fancy for only the those who get really board. As it turns out the Japanese love pro-wrestling. They love it enough to have a bar and grill themed after the Hulk Hogan of Japanese pro-wrestling Antonio Inoki Sakaba!

The entrance to Antonio Inoki Sakaba Bar and Grill


I felt a little shock walking into the place. Hamed just had a look of a deer in head lights. I really think he was beside himself in the mist of such an odd but fun place. The entire place was pro-wrestling themed out to the max. When you enter they ring a fight bell just before taking you to your seats. The bar area is a wrestling ring; which adds to the charm of the place. The seating area I found to be interesting. Almost all the seating is just like the ring side tables which the announcers set at during a match. There were plenty of TV sets constantly showing Antonio Inoki Sakaba`s best fights. I got to see this guy take on the legend Hulk Hogan and Andre the Giant. Also, order the salad for some extra fun. Just trust me on that one.

The menu was very American style but themed for pro-wrestling. The oddest of the choices was a sausage on a hook. I do not know how that is connected to pro-wrestling but it sometimes better not to ask in Tokyo. I did not try any of the food myself, due to the fact I had a big lunch, so I cannot say if it is any good. Although, the beer selection is up to snuff. They actually have Coors! It is rare that I find any place in Tokyo which sells Coors. It is one of the best beers from America; a real treat for me for sure.

I really suggest checking this place out. It is something different and fun to do in Tokyo. It is really easy to find actually. When you arrive at Ikebukuro station exit the central east gate. After that, turn left and it is right beside the Big Camera shop. Have fun and let me know what you think of the place.

This is why you should order the salad